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July/Aug 2019 Trip pt. 1

A vegan, vegetarian, coeliac and omnivore flew into Cambodia….

A vegan, a coeliac, a vegetarian and an omnivore flew into Cambodia….

— Harry Bartram, 2019

It sounds like the start of a terrible joke, but instead it’s the start of a great adventure.  After paying far too much for remorques (tuk tuks) to the RUA campus. We settled into the guesthouse and started getting our bearings.


Side note: Seriously, have PassApp downloaded and ready to activate with your Cambodian sim card you can hopefully grab at the airport (as long as you are not arriving during the middle of the night). AND USE IT! Don’t be weak like me and have the app ready but take a tuk tuk from a hawker outside. Even when I knew the prices I was not stubborn or strong enough to argue him down to a reasonable price and paid over double the market rate. BTW from the centre of PP it is like 4-5 US dollars or 16000 riel and the airport should be similar.


Fruit to try:

Mangstienes

(https://www.entekrishi.com/products/mangostien/)

Snake Fruit (it’s a love it or hate it taste so worth trying)

(https://www.atlasobscura.com/foods/snakefruit-salak-indonesia-bali)

Longans

(https://www.indiamart.com/proddetail/fresh-longan-16990176462.html)

Rambutans

(https://www.amazon.com/Big-Rambutan-Nephelium-Lappaceum-Seeds/dp/B00FFTVK1Y)


The campus is as Colin said and I’m sure you’ve read, in a suburban area. Be under no illusions, expect almost nobody to speak much English outside of the university academic staff and students. This way you will be excited and pleasantly surprised when finding someone who can. In the centre of town there is more English spoken due to the tourism density.

After a day of introductions, planning and campus tours we were flagging but made an effort to go to a supermarket to get supplies. Unfortunately Apple maps is hopeless in Cambodia (possibly the world) and we ended up getting a 30 minute tuk tuk to a supermarket rather than a 5 minute one. It turned out to be a good time to chat and acquaint ourselves with each other. Be aware that the supermarket is good for safe food but is certainly not cheap and not necessarily high quality. There is plenty of cheap and amazing fruit and veg in street stalls that is safe as long as you wash and prepare it well and go to the stalls that locals frequent. 

After, a couple of us went down the street to have dinner. We stumbled across a little local place who was able to tell us that the locals flock there for the beef soup and so what else were we to do but try it! It was heralded as delicious. It is just the RUA side of the volleyball court entry, on the left side of the road if you go straight out of the RUA gate.

On the Tuesday, we organised to go to Phnom Pehn Animal Welfare Society which is a 15 minute tuk tuk from RUA. Here we met and mainly watched them as they went about their day spaying, castrating, and consulting. We were able to hash out plans to get a cat that is resident at the guesthouse spayed and potentially rehome her kittens, and come with them on a pagoda mission the next week. Nearby (5min tuk tuk) to PPAWS was a useful vegetarian restaurant, Vitking House.

Suitably tired we quickly worked on our presentations for the next day in the early afternoon and then went into town to check out some sights and get tea. We quickly looked at the independence monument and royal palace before going and experiencing what the locals love to do in their spare time as they congregate at the Olympic stadium to exercise in all forms, dance, soccer and some strange variation of soccer volleyball. 

Wednesday morning we were straight into it at 8.30am starting to try and get talks underway. Some technical difficulties were hurdled and we were away for a couple of hours until an unfortunate power outage that halted proceedings for 30 minutes or so. It is important to be ready for anything in Cambodia. The water in the house was also out most of Wednesday night. 

The presentations were well received though it is ALOT of hard work getting audience participation. Also it is good to know that because whilst some students have very good English, others struggle so your talk will be 50% longer due to teachers translating for you. Wednesday was the first day we presented to the class. We didn’t know what to expect, but every slide had to be translated by the professors. The students seemed to get bogged down by a lot of the details. Back to the drawing board it was! 

That evening we went and saw the National Museum of Cambodia Dance and Cultural Show. Holy cow, can they dance. It’s $15/pp for the cheapest seats, but the theatre is small and we had no problems with the view. The costumes are colourful and extravagant, the music upbeat, and the dancing very entertaining. Following this we dined at a local restaurant called “Friends”. They were very accommodating to our friends with dietary requirements, with many options available. 

A Joyous Revelation

By Alexa Cirignani

This is the second time I have done this trip. I want to talk about the changes that have occurred with me and I want to pass on advice to fellow students. The first time I ever came to Cambodia, I came out with people I knew well. I was excited because I was going to be going on an adventure, something I had never tried before, and I was going to be doing it with friends. Upon arrival my senses were overwhelmed with the sights, the smells, and the sounds of an entirely new country. A little background about myself, I’m an international student from America. The first time I had really left the country was to come to Australia to study-Melbourne is not much of a change from my homelife, but south east Asia certainly is. The first thing you notice when you land in Phnom Penh is the sound pollution. People always trying to sell you things, the motors running along the roads. Then it’s the sights. Everything is a commodity. The same place that just sold you your water bottle also sells phone cards for a dollar, and maybe some children’s toy or laundry detergent. Its an entire supermarket boxed into these little squares along the street. And for those who couldn’t afford that much, it would all be shoved onto a motor bike attached to a food cart. At first it was all very eye opening and exciting as I would make my way through the outdoor markets looking for something safe for me to eat. But as the days wore on, I began to lose the excitement of everything. I began to notice how the streets were becoming piled up with garbage, and how the toilets were just holes in the ground. I began to focus on these thoughts, and they would continue to weigh down on me. My heart became bitter and I lost the focus and the appreciation for the country and its people.

I had already made the commitment to come out a second time, I couldn’t back out. I became more and more anxious as the time to come back drew nearer. In my heart I knew I wasn’t driven, and not only this, but I would be attending this trip with strangers. People I knew the names and faces of, but people I have never spent time with. The day came when I needed to come back. So I swallowed my pride and boarded the plane. When I landed, I was surrounded with the familiar sounds, sights, and smells. People trying to sell me anything and everything. Being more educated than I was the last time, I knew how to politely decline and navigate myself to where I needed to be. Upon arriving at the house, I was greeted by four new faces. One of the residential house cats had kittens in the time I was gone (this information becomes relevant later on).

In the following days, the new team of four (three students and one supervisor), began to get to know each other. Our personalities, our likes and dislikes, our hopes and dreams. The students at the university were heading into their exams week and didn’t have a whole lot of time to spare for us. Aash, our supervisor was wonderfully supportive. She helped us to find an organization called PPAWS (Phnom Penh Animal Welfare Society); a vet clinic that would allow us to practice our skills. We told them of the mamma cat and her four babies on the property. They told us we could bring mamma in to have her spayed, for free. It touched me to see how generous this company was. The extent of their generosity runs even greater than that, and it’s something that changed me. It will become relevant later on in this blog post.

After being in Phnom Penh for nearly four days, we finally got to present our teachings. It can be so incredibly draining, and frustrating having a language barrier. Every single slide I read, the professor had to translate. The first time I was here, and they had to do that, it was the start of my entitlement. I remember thinking “I thought these students knew English”, “I can barely understand them”. It could be physically exhausting trying to maintain a conversation as the students took us out or joined us for a meal. That same feeling started to come back to me as I read off the slides-the students still weren’t getting it. I remember thinking to myself “Oh well. I’ve done my best. I’ve given them the tools and they can use it however they want”. That afternoon my presentation got ripped apart by our supervisor. It was an emotionally exhausting day. The following morning, I took the advice from my supervisor and cleaned up my report thinking, “Lets give this one more try”. This time, I allowed for pauses in my slides, not overwhelming the professor as he explained things to the students. By the end of this lesson, they actually got it. I taught them about prevalence studies and they gave me the perfect example. I was shocked and filled with joy, we were actually getting somewhere! I felt like I was finally doing some good.

I’m going to skip forward a few more days. Yesterday we brought in the mamma cat to get spayed. I asked one of the workers how much it would cost to have her four kittens taken care of as well. Before we could discuss pricing, I was pulled away to come watch a surgery. After the surgery they came up to me and told me “You can bring them in at any time, we won’t charge you anything because you’re doing a great service”. Something about this really touched me. I’m an American, I am considered “wealthy” in their eyes, and truthfully I am. I can drink water from my tap, I don’t have to worry about twenty-five cents.

The following evening, I attended dinner with a Cambodian friend who had recently graduated from Melbourne University on a scholarship. I admired how he could move to a country where they didn’t speak his first language and attend for two years, making a life for himself. It really touched me, because I can barely get by two weeks here. It made me realize how entitled and self-absorbed I am. Before parting for the evening, my friend asked me “Do you want to come to my place for breakfast tomorrow? My mother would love to see you again. She loved that you were so ‘joyful’’’. Joyful. I must be a good actress because in my heart I felt pity. How shameful am I? These people take pride in their country and their language and so should I. These people have a fraction of the luxuries that I do and yet, they are truly filled with joy. Enough joy that they feel the need to share what little they have with us.

To my fellow students. We are so incredibly blessed beyond words; we don’t know what it’s like to be hungry, to have to drink only from plastic water bottles. Please don’t miss out on the opportunity to open your heart to new things. There will be times of trial, there will be moments that will make you uncomfortable. Feel them fully. Learn to acquire the same joy and pride that these people have. I almost missed this opportunity. I am so glad I got a second chance, maybe God knew I wasn’t ready the first time. As for the strangers I started the trip off with, I now call them friends.

Raining, Cats and Dogs

Tuesday 6th August

Today we held a 2 hour workshop with 18 students on Cat and Dog physical examinations and some basic diagnostic techniques. Whilst not necessarily exactly the topic we had set out to be teaching in more depth we joined in with the spirit of the locals to be versatile and flexible to the wants of the students. Luckily the animal clinic is a matter of meters from the Guesthouse as today was another fairly wet day with a threatening sky looming. 

Having got lucky with a break in the weather and made it to the class dry. We set about refreshing the approach to the clinical exam then divided students into small groups to go and have a chance to practice with a real life dog. This was a very obliging pitbull owned by a student. Whilst other groups were doing this we improvised and kept the class engaged by discussing how different abnormalities could be interpreted and what might be the next step in the diagnostic plan. The students then were getting involved and we fielded questions which led the tutorial into teaching fluid rate calculations which was well received.

In the end, every student got a good chance to practice a head-tail exam on a dog and practice at least reading and listening to some english. The braver ones were great at asking questions and translating for friends. By the end everyone had a smile and seemed either relieved to have survived another english class or genuinely thankful for our efforts. Buoyed by a job well done, we made it home just before the monsoon started once more.

As I write this it continues to rain steadily, I am hoping that it relents before our dinner plans with Sothun tonight.

Maggie goes to Hospital

Monday 5th August

Today was a big day with Maggie the household cat and mother of four rambunctious kittens heading to PPAWS for desexing.   Though not particularly appreciative of the tuk tuk ride to the clinic, upon arriving at PPAWS Maggie received the highest level of care.  PPAWS is an NGO that generously offers free desexing and vaccinations to animals and owners in need as well as visiting local Pagodas to help take care of animals.  The skilled clinicians finished Maggies by early morning and proceeded to spay another 3 cats and perform an eye enucleation on a dog, with a bonus cherry eye surgery lesson thrown in for good measure, before pausing for a well eared lunch. Whilst the clinicians sat down for a shared lunch we head out to find some delicious amok, which is beginning to appear on high rotation in our diets.  Collecting a somewhat groggy Maggie from the clinic we took her home and attempted to encourage some peaceful recovery.

Deciding to explore our own neighbourhood this evening, we head out through the university gates to wards a local fresh food market. The stalls were a joyful bustle with a range of vegetables, seafood and fruit and the roads a Tetris game of shoppers and bikes.  We purchased rambutans and mangastiens, after some discussion over the correct tourist tax. We then sat down for dinner at a local restaurant whilst a very patient waiter deciphered our struggled communication of our dietary requirements before dishing us up a delicious meal of veggies and nam ngau soup (a delicious Khmer specialty that uses chicken and salt preserved lime).

A Weekend Treasure Hunt

The weekend went well with us getting some sight-seeing in. Alexa and Indah enjoyed dinner and a show with them attending a traditional puppet show on Saturday night. They were astounded that some of the puppeteers were revealed at the end of the show to be prepubescent! There is truly great art and culture and so much talent in this country.

Sunday was a day wandering the peaceful grounds of Wat Phnom and hunting high and low for a copy of an ancient asian board game called ‘Go’ with no success unfortunately, though we did get to experience the intensity of the central market. Quite a grand bazaar, the main building is a great piece of architecture designed by a local architect. 

DVM4 Cambodia selective July/Aug pt. 2

August 1, 2019

Take two on the presentations! After greatly simplifying our presentations, making translation much easier, we found that the students were getting what we were trying to teach them. What a glorious moment! This was the entire reason why we had come out to Cambodia. After a very successful morning, we met the students that we would be intimately working with and discussed tentative plans for dinner the following evening. 

Following our presentations, we had lunch with some of our hosts at the university restaurant. After which our group did a case-study on rabies to refresh our knowledge so that we could hopefully relay it to the RUA students the following week. 

Thursday night was an epic odyssey involving lengthy tuk tuks due to breakdowns only to be underwhelmed by the night markets we were excited for. There is always a silver lining as we found another great vego/vegan option in the city in ‘Vegetarian House’ and did manage to get some pretty decent icecream from the market served in a coconut shell with flesh still inside.

August 2, 2019

On Friday we commencing the day with a tuk tuk ride down to the Choeung Ek Genocidal centre.  Once at the ‘Killing Fields’ we purchased our tickets and began our complementary audio tour.  Placing on our headphone we began to hear the tragic stories of the Cambodian genocide. As we walked in silence amongst visitors from across the world through the lush green gardens it was hard to comprehend the atrocities that had occurred there.  It was harrowing to hear the tragic history carried in land, from mounds in the earth to old trees. Though an emotionally challenging visit, the ‘Killing Field’ has been created to not only be an educational centre and but also to remember the lives affect by the genocide and alow the world to learn from history. It also allows foreigners like ourselves to better grasp how resilient and incredibly positive the Khmer people are as a whole.

Leaving the centre somewhat emotionally drained we thought that lunch was probably overdue.  We managed to grab a tuk tuk just in time to escape the wet season downpour. We enjoyed a very melbournian style lunch at the cafe Vibe before saying “chumreap lear” (goodbye in khmer) to our amazing supervisor Aash as she had to leave to get back for work.

Then we quickly moved on to heading to dinner with students at a local eatery. They initiated us in the ways of Cambodian hotpot (because it had rained that afternoon/evening and was according to them official hotpot weather). We bonded with this group of students well and really enjoyed their outstanding hospitality. We tried to steer conversation towards research topics a couple of times but were quickly redirected as the students had final exams on the mind. We knew when it was not worth the fight and just settled for helping them with their english and trying to learn a bit more about khmer culture/language.

Introduce Yourself (Example Post)

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